I was toying with the idea of writing no post at all today, but consistency is a virtue I guess. Paris can't be sugar-coated all of the time; I've found it does have its rough patches.
So I decided to devote much of the day prepping for research. I figured I'd register myself at the Bibliothèque Nationale de France (hereafter BnF) and the Bibliothèque Jacques Doucet (hereafter Doucet) to smooth things out for the rest of my trip. I´d already filled out a pre-reg form for the BnF and the Doucet seemed to be easy enough, so I figured I´d give it a go today.
Before that, though, I attempted to find another historic (in terms of my thesis) building. An original store, Parfums d´Orsay, designed by André Mare. I wanted to get an idea of his actual erected works. Google Maps confirmed that it still stood and was modified only slightly to accommodate the new tenant: Baccarat Crystal. However, upon showing up, the building was undergoing a complete and total refacing and is now home to a low end handbag and goodies store. No trace of the original left. Epic fail.
I then headed over to the BnF to complete my registration. A lady had emailed me back with quite detailed instructions I must have read over five times. I get to the office of registration and, low and behold, the person helping me out was the one that sent me the email. She was none-too-pleased when I handed over my driver's license as my "carte d'identité". Evidently, in France that doesn't count. She was going to send me all the way back to get it but then took what I'm guessing was pity on me and said I could bring back my passport tomorrow and she could otherwise get me set up today. The rest finished off smoothly, but all I have to say at this point is: THE BNF'S ORGANIZATIONAL SYSTEM AND RULES ARE ABSOLUTELY BEYOND CONFUSING TO ME. It's really terrible. They have two major buildings, very far apart. I'm probably going to be mainly in the other one. They close on Monday for two weeks, so I need to hurry and get done. But the Arsenal library has the originals of some of the Microfilm I'm looking at and they don't close. Oh, and there's also this "Insitute Nationale d'Histoire de l'Art" with its own swath of collections in the BnF...and I really don't know if I have the time to completely investigate them and use their resources. Also, the iconic Salle des Lecteurs designed by Henri Labrouste was completely closed as the entire BnF is undergoing a massive renovation...further confusing the process I must add.
So I felt bad and went back to my apartment to regroup, get my passport, and figure out the duplicate call numbers for this Arsenal Library (which I haven't located just yet).
So I figured I'd try out the Doucet library, because how hard could a branch of the Sorbonne Library really be?
I got lost after coming out of the Métro station and it took me a good 10-15 minutes to find the Panthéon where the library is off of. Ironically, I was RIGHT next to it the other day I noted the Bibliothèque Sainte-Genviève. So I called up at a nondescript door and was let in. I walk into a tiny research room (could only seat maybe 10) and inquired at the desk. I did my research on their rather user-friendly catalogue and narrowed my research here down to two or three people, particularly the archive of Guillaume Apollinaire. Sure registration won't be a problem, but French Copyright reared its terrible head again. Remember when the Ardenne Abbey had to contact André Mare's heirs so I could view his stuff? Yeah, well same rules apply. Except this time, the library doesn't contact him for me, I have to do it myself. I'm not trying to sound snobbish; I mean to sound insecure. I absolutely suck at phone calls in French. I can't remember if I blogged about it or not, but I had a nasty experience calling to get directions for the shuttle to Ardenne. I prefer to do everything via email so I can properly write and translate what I mean to say, nuances and all. But, of course, Guillaume Appolinaire's heir is only reachable by phone. And I need to get written or emailed permission from him to view the materials...which is hard since I can't receive mail at my apartment and I'm banking on him probably not having an email either, else the library probably would have had it listed. I'm seriously considering just foregoing the Doucet to focus my attention on the Centre Pompidou and BnF. Now open to fielding suggestions from you.
Seriously though, this web of French copyright is ridiculous. I can understand contacting the heirs for permission if things actually belong to them. If they are materials privately owned by someone else and then deposited freely in an archive, why should the heirs of the original owner still have power over who sees it or not? I get that idea for publishing rights and whatnot, but not for simple consultation for a university thesis.
Whatever...
So after that I had just enough time to see one museum: the Musée du Quai Branly, the brand-spanking new museum of ethnic art designed by Jean Nouvel. Easily one of the most peculiar setups I've seen in a museum. Very loose and flowing and completely clear glass cases which seems to disrupt and notion of exclusivity or narrative. I found this very clever. Also, really digging this whole "people between 18-25 EU residents get in for free thing" because most of the time they umbrella it out to ALL people 18-25. So yup, free entry once again...I'm eternally grateful to France for that.
So I'm hitting the hay a little early tonight and am going to try to go to the BnF first thing to try to get one of the covet-able spots. I could only reserve one for Thursday, but I might be able to sneak in if they have openings tomorrow. Here's hoping tomorrow runs a little smoother than today's Rocky Road. Sorry, I've totally had chocolate on the brain lately...cravings?
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