Hey all, just quickly checking in.
I am indeed still alive. Yesterday was spent hanging out with friends from NU and associated trappings. Today was chuck full of awesomeness, but unfortunately, I have to wake up at 6 AM tomorrow morning to catch a train to Fontainebleau where I intend to spend the day!
So as my days are numbered here and I have a million things to do and see, my updates may become spotty, for which I apologize! However, I will try to make big updates, otherwise the huge unloading of pictures on Facebook when I get home should more than make up for it :)
Sunday, September 4, 2011
Friday, September 2, 2011
American(s) in Paris
Because I like to riff off of George Gershwin pieces, clearly.
Started out the morning by investigating the Museum of Modern Art of the City of Paris (not to be confused with the National Museum of Modern Art AKA The Centre Pompidou). Solid collection; got to see a couple original Cubist works that I had been reading about. Much to my surprise as I was running out, I ran into Z (I´m redacting names because I´m privacy conscious and whatnot) from Northwestern. Proof that this large world is in fact getting smaller and smaller.
I made my way to the Centre Pompidou to meet B, another NU student who´s in town for a few days for lunch. As chance would have it, still another Wildcat, G, also joined us for lunch. Very, VERY small world...hee hee.
Research finished up nicely at the Pompidou. I can´t begin to express my thanks and gratitude to the team at the Bibliothèque Kandinsky. Very cordial and accommodating. Since I got done a wee bit early, I got to finally check out the Atelier Brancusi, Constantin Brancusi´s reconstructed studio on the piazza of the Pompidou that he donated to the state. Missed it the last time I was here because of scheduling. Very interesting setup and speaks to the whole notion of a total work of art.
Found a new bakery right up the street from my apartment with HUGE baguettes for REALLY cheap. Score. Also, found a really nice Japanese restaurant for dinner (as man can´t live on microwavable meals alone). They even gave me a free cocktail as I seemed to be their only customer. Picked up a slew of groceries to last through the weekend.
So yeah, shortish day all things considered. Can you tell I wrote this really fast? I imagine tomorrow´s post will be quite longer :)
Started out the morning by investigating the Museum of Modern Art of the City of Paris (not to be confused with the National Museum of Modern Art AKA The Centre Pompidou). Solid collection; got to see a couple original Cubist works that I had been reading about. Much to my surprise as I was running out, I ran into Z (I´m redacting names because I´m privacy conscious and whatnot) from Northwestern. Proof that this large world is in fact getting smaller and smaller.
I made my way to the Centre Pompidou to meet B, another NU student who´s in town for a few days for lunch. As chance would have it, still another Wildcat, G, also joined us for lunch. Very, VERY small world...hee hee.
Research finished up nicely at the Pompidou. I can´t begin to express my thanks and gratitude to the team at the Bibliothèque Kandinsky. Very cordial and accommodating. Since I got done a wee bit early, I got to finally check out the Atelier Brancusi, Constantin Brancusi´s reconstructed studio on the piazza of the Pompidou that he donated to the state. Missed it the last time I was here because of scheduling. Very interesting setup and speaks to the whole notion of a total work of art.
Found a new bakery right up the street from my apartment with HUGE baguettes for REALLY cheap. Score. Also, found a really nice Japanese restaurant for dinner (as man can´t live on microwavable meals alone). They even gave me a free cocktail as I seemed to be their only customer. Picked up a slew of groceries to last through the weekend.
So yeah, shortish day all things considered. Can you tell I wrote this really fast? I imagine tomorrow´s post will be quite longer :)
Thursday, September 1, 2011
Rollin, Rollin, Rollin
Between the wheels of the endless Métro cars and the countless rolls of microfilm....indeed
I started bright and early at the BnF this morning again. A few problems with their automated request system, but eh...nothing too interesting. Fortunately, I was able to finish everything up by the time I had to leave.
At 1 PM, I booked it to the Centre Pompidou, the research appointment that was kind of the raison d´être of my trip to France. And of course, I showed up like half an hour too early. Needless to say, the area around the Pompidou is bustling with activity and culture and wasn´t too difficult to find something distracting. For instance, I´m walking around the building and something in the window catches my eye: CHRISTIAN MARCLAY. My first reaction was: wait....NO! But yes. Much to my surprise, the Pompidou is going to be hosting a 3 day long 24 hour a day screening of Christian Marclay´s renowned The Clock while I´m hear. Amazingly epic win. Also, there were quite a few hippies around...just sayin...
So I was awkwardly hanging out by the employee entrance I was supposed to go through, and thankfully one of the employees had come down to look for me. We went through a dizzying assortment of tunnels under the Pompidou (seriously, look at the outside of the building and imagine the basement...yes, it´s that crazy) to get up to the library. It became more and more clear (thanks to the ever-present language barrier) that they had really gone above and beyond to help me out with my research. The library is currently closed to everyone as they are undergoing a massive inventory check. They wanted to reschedule my appointment to the 16th, but decided to honor it when they realized I had already bought my flight and made arrangements. For this, I could truly not be more grateful. Whilst going through plentiful correspondance, I´m pretty sure I ran across a letter signed by the Louis Vuitton. Cooly. Also, a band started to play in the piazza aside the museum. As the curator explained, the piazza in front of the museum is owned by the Pompidou and they can control it, but the side one is owned by the city...i.e. no rules. So when brass pep bands decide to have a random performance like today, there is nothing they can do. However, I will say that it was mildly amusing hearing them transition from Tequila to the Spice Girls, culminating in Britney Spear´s Toxic. Yeah France.
Tick tock, I realized I have but a week left here...and it´s certainly going to be jam-packed. I really don´t want to leave again having missed to do something!
I started bright and early at the BnF this morning again. A few problems with their automated request system, but eh...nothing too interesting. Fortunately, I was able to finish everything up by the time I had to leave.
At 1 PM, I booked it to the Centre Pompidou, the research appointment that was kind of the raison d´être of my trip to France. And of course, I showed up like half an hour too early. Needless to say, the area around the Pompidou is bustling with activity and culture and wasn´t too difficult to find something distracting. For instance, I´m walking around the building and something in the window catches my eye: CHRISTIAN MARCLAY. My first reaction was: wait....NO! But yes. Much to my surprise, the Pompidou is going to be hosting a 3 day long 24 hour a day screening of Christian Marclay´s renowned The Clock while I´m hear. Amazingly epic win. Also, there were quite a few hippies around...just sayin...
So I was awkwardly hanging out by the employee entrance I was supposed to go through, and thankfully one of the employees had come down to look for me. We went through a dizzying assortment of tunnels under the Pompidou (seriously, look at the outside of the building and imagine the basement...yes, it´s that crazy) to get up to the library. It became more and more clear (thanks to the ever-present language barrier) that they had really gone above and beyond to help me out with my research. The library is currently closed to everyone as they are undergoing a massive inventory check. They wanted to reschedule my appointment to the 16th, but decided to honor it when they realized I had already bought my flight and made arrangements. For this, I could truly not be more grateful. Whilst going through plentiful correspondance, I´m pretty sure I ran across a letter signed by the Louis Vuitton. Cooly. Also, a band started to play in the piazza aside the museum. As the curator explained, the piazza in front of the museum is owned by the Pompidou and they can control it, but the side one is owned by the city...i.e. no rules. So when brass pep bands decide to have a random performance like today, there is nothing they can do. However, I will say that it was mildly amusing hearing them transition from Tequila to the Spice Girls, culminating in Britney Spear´s Toxic. Yeah France.
Tick tock, I realized I have but a week left here...and it´s certainly going to be jam-packed. I really don´t want to leave again having missed to do something!
Wednesday, August 31, 2011
Cue the Mission Impossible Theme Song
Yes, that music is quite called for.
I woke up at the crack of dawn to go to the BnF Francois Mitterand when they opened at 9 AM to try to get a seat. The system online said there weren´t any left to reserve, but I thought I´d give it a try. Seriously, the place is like Fort Knox. You enter down a long ramp from the gargantuan (and gorgeous) plaza. You have to go through a metal detector. After that, you have to transfer your things to a clear plastic briefcase and check everything else. Scan your card and enter the escalator room. Go down escalators and scan again. Here I inquired at the desk if there were any places available, and BEHOLD there were! So I scan one more time and get to enter the main corridor of the reading rooms. It´s basically one absolutely gigantic, multi-tiered rectangle connecting all four of the ¨open book¨ buildings of the BnF underground. Seriously, the place is amazing: technologically equip, quiet, new, organized, and automated. (Granted everything had a learning curve for me today) You request all the materials you need online and they are brought out for you. You can track their status online like a UPS package. Today, I was going through 10 rolls (the daily limit) of microfilm of old newspapers to gauge the public response to the Maison Cubiste that I´m studying. Another big learning curve for getting a copy card and working with the attendant to print off pages (since one cannot do it oneself). Any HOLY COW are the copies expensive. You have the choice between A4 (close to letter size) and A3 (close to 11x17 but wider). 35 euro cents for the former, and 45 for the latter (if my memory serves me right...plus or minus a few cents). RIDICULOUS. Also ridiculous, the change machine wasn´t working and there was no way I was putting 10 euros on my copy card, never to be seen again. Had to ask random people for change. Lovely.
I managed to figure out the process for recording a temporary exit so I could go get lunch. I only have 3 days on my card and I have to make them count! Good food. This area of Paris is distinctly modern (but not La Défense) so there were a decent amount of food choices.
I decided to head out at 5 PM having reached my reserve limit and my mental limit. Burning out, much?
Alas, after being in France for two weeks, the time has finally come to do laundry. Found a laundromat close-ish to the apartment. There was one closer but I, like the utterly cheap person I am, went bargain hunting. That said, I shall try to NEVER complain about how much NU charges for washing machines again. Try this: 3,50 euros for a small super-economical-i-dont-fill-with-water washing machine. And for drying: 50 euro cents for every 7 minutes. So I consolidated and managed to do the whole shabang for 5,50 euros. Joy.
And later at the apartment I discovered that many of the journals I wanted to look at tomorrow at the BnF are available as PDFs on their website! Totally didn´t realize/overlooked/didn´t have an account yet to access that. That said, I should really be able to finish it all tomorrow. Yay!
Also, Centre Pompidou tomorrow...wish me luck...
I woke up at the crack of dawn to go to the BnF Francois Mitterand when they opened at 9 AM to try to get a seat. The system online said there weren´t any left to reserve, but I thought I´d give it a try. Seriously, the place is like Fort Knox. You enter down a long ramp from the gargantuan (and gorgeous) plaza. You have to go through a metal detector. After that, you have to transfer your things to a clear plastic briefcase and check everything else. Scan your card and enter the escalator room. Go down escalators and scan again. Here I inquired at the desk if there were any places available, and BEHOLD there were! So I scan one more time and get to enter the main corridor of the reading rooms. It´s basically one absolutely gigantic, multi-tiered rectangle connecting all four of the ¨open book¨ buildings of the BnF underground. Seriously, the place is amazing: technologically equip, quiet, new, organized, and automated. (Granted everything had a learning curve for me today) You request all the materials you need online and they are brought out for you. You can track their status online like a UPS package. Today, I was going through 10 rolls (the daily limit) of microfilm of old newspapers to gauge the public response to the Maison Cubiste that I´m studying. Another big learning curve for getting a copy card and working with the attendant to print off pages (since one cannot do it oneself). Any HOLY COW are the copies expensive. You have the choice between A4 (close to letter size) and A3 (close to 11x17 but wider). 35 euro cents for the former, and 45 for the latter (if my memory serves me right...plus or minus a few cents). RIDICULOUS. Also ridiculous, the change machine wasn´t working and there was no way I was putting 10 euros on my copy card, never to be seen again. Had to ask random people for change. Lovely.
I managed to figure out the process for recording a temporary exit so I could go get lunch. I only have 3 days on my card and I have to make them count! Good food. This area of Paris is distinctly modern (but not La Défense) so there were a decent amount of food choices.
I decided to head out at 5 PM having reached my reserve limit and my mental limit. Burning out, much?
Alas, after being in France for two weeks, the time has finally come to do laundry. Found a laundromat close-ish to the apartment. There was one closer but I, like the utterly cheap person I am, went bargain hunting. That said, I shall try to NEVER complain about how much NU charges for washing machines again. Try this: 3,50 euros for a small super-economical-i-dont-fill-with-water washing machine. And for drying: 50 euro cents for every 7 minutes. So I consolidated and managed to do the whole shabang for 5,50 euros. Joy.
And later at the apartment I discovered that many of the journals I wanted to look at tomorrow at the BnF are available as PDFs on their website! Totally didn´t realize/overlooked/didn´t have an account yet to access that. That said, I should really be able to finish it all tomorrow. Yay!
Also, Centre Pompidou tomorrow...wish me luck...
Tuesday, August 30, 2011
The Post Where I Stress and Whine A Lot
I was toying with the idea of writing no post at all today, but consistency is a virtue I guess. Paris can't be sugar-coated all of the time; I've found it does have its rough patches.
So I decided to devote much of the day prepping for research. I figured I'd register myself at the Bibliothèque Nationale de France (hereafter BnF) and the Bibliothèque Jacques Doucet (hereafter Doucet) to smooth things out for the rest of my trip. I´d already filled out a pre-reg form for the BnF and the Doucet seemed to be easy enough, so I figured I´d give it a go today.
Before that, though, I attempted to find another historic (in terms of my thesis) building. An original store, Parfums d´Orsay, designed by André Mare. I wanted to get an idea of his actual erected works. Google Maps confirmed that it still stood and was modified only slightly to accommodate the new tenant: Baccarat Crystal. However, upon showing up, the building was undergoing a complete and total refacing and is now home to a low end handbag and goodies store. No trace of the original left. Epic fail.
I then headed over to the BnF to complete my registration. A lady had emailed me back with quite detailed instructions I must have read over five times. I get to the office of registration and, low and behold, the person helping me out was the one that sent me the email. She was none-too-pleased when I handed over my driver's license as my "carte d'identité". Evidently, in France that doesn't count. She was going to send me all the way back to get it but then took what I'm guessing was pity on me and said I could bring back my passport tomorrow and she could otherwise get me set up today. The rest finished off smoothly, but all I have to say at this point is: THE BNF'S ORGANIZATIONAL SYSTEM AND RULES ARE ABSOLUTELY BEYOND CONFUSING TO ME. It's really terrible. They have two major buildings, very far apart. I'm probably going to be mainly in the other one. They close on Monday for two weeks, so I need to hurry and get done. But the Arsenal library has the originals of some of the Microfilm I'm looking at and they don't close. Oh, and there's also this "Insitute Nationale d'Histoire de l'Art" with its own swath of collections in the BnF...and I really don't know if I have the time to completely investigate them and use their resources. Also, the iconic Salle des Lecteurs designed by Henri Labrouste was completely closed as the entire BnF is undergoing a massive renovation...further confusing the process I must add.
So I felt bad and went back to my apartment to regroup, get my passport, and figure out the duplicate call numbers for this Arsenal Library (which I haven't located just yet).
So I figured I'd try out the Doucet library, because how hard could a branch of the Sorbonne Library really be?
I got lost after coming out of the Métro station and it took me a good 10-15 minutes to find the Panthéon where the library is off of. Ironically, I was RIGHT next to it the other day I noted the Bibliothèque Sainte-Genviève. So I called up at a nondescript door and was let in. I walk into a tiny research room (could only seat maybe 10) and inquired at the desk. I did my research on their rather user-friendly catalogue and narrowed my research here down to two or three people, particularly the archive of Guillaume Apollinaire. Sure registration won't be a problem, but French Copyright reared its terrible head again. Remember when the Ardenne Abbey had to contact André Mare's heirs so I could view his stuff? Yeah, well same rules apply. Except this time, the library doesn't contact him for me, I have to do it myself. I'm not trying to sound snobbish; I mean to sound insecure. I absolutely suck at phone calls in French. I can't remember if I blogged about it or not, but I had a nasty experience calling to get directions for the shuttle to Ardenne. I prefer to do everything via email so I can properly write and translate what I mean to say, nuances and all. But, of course, Guillaume Appolinaire's heir is only reachable by phone. And I need to get written or emailed permission from him to view the materials...which is hard since I can't receive mail at my apartment and I'm banking on him probably not having an email either, else the library probably would have had it listed. I'm seriously considering just foregoing the Doucet to focus my attention on the Centre Pompidou and BnF. Now open to fielding suggestions from you.
Seriously though, this web of French copyright is ridiculous. I can understand contacting the heirs for permission if things actually belong to them. If they are materials privately owned by someone else and then deposited freely in an archive, why should the heirs of the original owner still have power over who sees it or not? I get that idea for publishing rights and whatnot, but not for simple consultation for a university thesis.
Whatever...
So after that I had just enough time to see one museum: the Musée du Quai Branly, the brand-spanking new museum of ethnic art designed by Jean Nouvel. Easily one of the most peculiar setups I've seen in a museum. Very loose and flowing and completely clear glass cases which seems to disrupt and notion of exclusivity or narrative. I found this very clever. Also, really digging this whole "people between 18-25 EU residents get in for free thing" because most of the time they umbrella it out to ALL people 18-25. So yup, free entry once again...I'm eternally grateful to France for that.
So I'm hitting the hay a little early tonight and am going to try to go to the BnF first thing to try to get one of the covet-able spots. I could only reserve one for Thursday, but I might be able to sneak in if they have openings tomorrow. Here's hoping tomorrow runs a little smoother than today's Rocky Road. Sorry, I've totally had chocolate on the brain lately...cravings?
So I decided to devote much of the day prepping for research. I figured I'd register myself at the Bibliothèque Nationale de France (hereafter BnF) and the Bibliothèque Jacques Doucet (hereafter Doucet) to smooth things out for the rest of my trip. I´d already filled out a pre-reg form for the BnF and the Doucet seemed to be easy enough, so I figured I´d give it a go today.
Before that, though, I attempted to find another historic (in terms of my thesis) building. An original store, Parfums d´Orsay, designed by André Mare. I wanted to get an idea of his actual erected works. Google Maps confirmed that it still stood and was modified only slightly to accommodate the new tenant: Baccarat Crystal. However, upon showing up, the building was undergoing a complete and total refacing and is now home to a low end handbag and goodies store. No trace of the original left. Epic fail.
I then headed over to the BnF to complete my registration. A lady had emailed me back with quite detailed instructions I must have read over five times. I get to the office of registration and, low and behold, the person helping me out was the one that sent me the email. She was none-too-pleased when I handed over my driver's license as my "carte d'identité". Evidently, in France that doesn't count. She was going to send me all the way back to get it but then took what I'm guessing was pity on me and said I could bring back my passport tomorrow and she could otherwise get me set up today. The rest finished off smoothly, but all I have to say at this point is: THE BNF'S ORGANIZATIONAL SYSTEM AND RULES ARE ABSOLUTELY BEYOND CONFUSING TO ME. It's really terrible. They have two major buildings, very far apart. I'm probably going to be mainly in the other one. They close on Monday for two weeks, so I need to hurry and get done. But the Arsenal library has the originals of some of the Microfilm I'm looking at and they don't close. Oh, and there's also this "Insitute Nationale d'Histoire de l'Art" with its own swath of collections in the BnF...and I really don't know if I have the time to completely investigate them and use their resources. Also, the iconic Salle des Lecteurs designed by Henri Labrouste was completely closed as the entire BnF is undergoing a massive renovation...further confusing the process I must add.
So I felt bad and went back to my apartment to regroup, get my passport, and figure out the duplicate call numbers for this Arsenal Library (which I haven't located just yet).
So I figured I'd try out the Doucet library, because how hard could a branch of the Sorbonne Library really be?
I got lost after coming out of the Métro station and it took me a good 10-15 minutes to find the Panthéon where the library is off of. Ironically, I was RIGHT next to it the other day I noted the Bibliothèque Sainte-Genviève. So I called up at a nondescript door and was let in. I walk into a tiny research room (could only seat maybe 10) and inquired at the desk. I did my research on their rather user-friendly catalogue and narrowed my research here down to two or three people, particularly the archive of Guillaume Apollinaire. Sure registration won't be a problem, but French Copyright reared its terrible head again. Remember when the Ardenne Abbey had to contact André Mare's heirs so I could view his stuff? Yeah, well same rules apply. Except this time, the library doesn't contact him for me, I have to do it myself. I'm not trying to sound snobbish; I mean to sound insecure. I absolutely suck at phone calls in French. I can't remember if I blogged about it or not, but I had a nasty experience calling to get directions for the shuttle to Ardenne. I prefer to do everything via email so I can properly write and translate what I mean to say, nuances and all. But, of course, Guillaume Appolinaire's heir is only reachable by phone. And I need to get written or emailed permission from him to view the materials...which is hard since I can't receive mail at my apartment and I'm banking on him probably not having an email either, else the library probably would have had it listed. I'm seriously considering just foregoing the Doucet to focus my attention on the Centre Pompidou and BnF. Now open to fielding suggestions from you.
Seriously though, this web of French copyright is ridiculous. I can understand contacting the heirs for permission if things actually belong to them. If they are materials privately owned by someone else and then deposited freely in an archive, why should the heirs of the original owner still have power over who sees it or not? I get that idea for publishing rights and whatnot, but not for simple consultation for a university thesis.
Whatever...
So after that I had just enough time to see one museum: the Musée du Quai Branly, the brand-spanking new museum of ethnic art designed by Jean Nouvel. Easily one of the most peculiar setups I've seen in a museum. Very loose and flowing and completely clear glass cases which seems to disrupt and notion of exclusivity or narrative. I found this very clever. Also, really digging this whole "people between 18-25 EU residents get in for free thing" because most of the time they umbrella it out to ALL people 18-25. So yup, free entry once again...I'm eternally grateful to France for that.
So I'm hitting the hay a little early tonight and am going to try to go to the BnF first thing to try to get one of the covet-able spots. I could only reserve one for Thursday, but I might be able to sneak in if they have openings tomorrow. Here's hoping tomorrow runs a little smoother than today's Rocky Road. Sorry, I've totally had chocolate on the brain lately...cravings?
Monday, August 29, 2011
Of Beauty Shops and Rings
Started out this lovely Monday morning with a trip to the La Poste. Had quite a bunch of postcards to send back to the states. Funny how the lines there were just as long and slow as they are back home. Some tendencies are clearly international.
I then checked out this Picard chain of stores I had heard of. Their speciality? Everything that is frozen food. And quite good looking frozen food if I do say so myself. I picked up a few odds and ends for a dinner to come.
I then hopped onto the Métro and went straight to the Trocadero to be about as touristy as I could be. I´m also glad to report that the Navigo Découverte worked perfectly! Time to use and abuse. The Trocadero offers the best and most uninterrupted views of the Tour Eiffel...quintessential tourist shot. I am happy.
I then went into the Museum of Architecture and Patrimony. Because of what I´m guessing are my manners and my smoothness of speaking French, I was considered a student of the EU and let in for free! The museum boasts architectural remnants off of just about every major church in the country of France from Chartres to Notre Dame in the center of the city. Everything started to blend together after a while, but the real highlight was an original entire apartment from Le Corbusier´s Unité d´Habitation in Marseille. Google away. The whole thing was rebuilt in the gallery and you could walk through the entire interior; that was a real treat. Although the question that kept popping into my head was: how and why did this stuff get here? Most of these buildings are still standing. Couldn´t find the answer to that conundrum anywhere...
By the time I got through this museum, I was starving. Unfortunately, the sandwiches in the food court were short and 5 euros....I muttered to myself that I could so do better. So I trotted down one of the radiating streets and, sure enough, found a patisserie with a huge tuna baguette sandwich for 3,50 euros. Score. Also, found the best place to sit and enjoy it: on the steps down from the Trocadero. Calm, few people, and glorious views of the Tour Eiffel :) After lunch, I walked under the Tour and took a peek at the menu of the illustrious Restaurant Jules Verne on the upper étage of the Tour. 165 euros for a full meal and 70 euro à la carte. 24 euro desserts. INSANE.
Hopped on the Métro and took it to the Palais Royale, the site of the Salon D´Automne of 1912 that I´m studying. Much to my disappointment, most of the building was under heavy renovation work. However, while circumambulating the building, one giant fair door was open and I got a lovely view of the main exhibition hall. Really breathtaking. I parked on a bench across from the main entrance to contemplate and stuff and had a guy try to pull the gold ring con on me. I don´t know the specifics, but they pretend to find a ring on the ground in front of you and offer it to you...I would assume for some sort of money...or pickpocketing...who knows...shook my head. Fun fact: Aston Martin´s Paris dealership backs up to the Grand Palais...distractions
Hopped back on the Métro and attempted to find the original gallery space for the Salon de la Section D´Or, a Cubism exhibition that was running at the same time as the Salon D´Automne. Mega unfortunately, the original space at 64 bis, rue de la Boétie has now become some sort of a high class beauty salon or school or something.
I hopped on the Métro still again to find the location of Daniel Henry-Kahnweiler´s gallery (gallerist to Picasso and Braques and arguably one of the most important facilitators of the history of Modern Art). Along the way ran into the Fauchon store. Decorated in black and pink à la Victoria´s Secret, but chocolate and delacacies galore. Though the entire wall of fois gras was a little disturbing I couldn´t help but walk out with a bar of (fruity?) chocolate. At 28, rue Vignon, the address of the gallery, I found the huge door open to a courtyard. The elegant metal and glass portico off of one wall of the courtyard certainly had the air of what could have been the gallery, but alas, also has now become a beauty salon. Trend?
I then trotted by the Bibliothèque Nationale de France where I hope to do research in the next couple days. Along the way to the original Monoprix I found in my first few days (because the one by me only carries clothes, cosmetics, and cleaning supplies?) I got a tad bit lost...and ended up at the grand magasin of Au Printemps...rough life, right? All looking, no buying as pretty much everything was out of my price range (still can´t quite see 1500 euros for a Lanvin sweater). Yay Monoprix...got me some good foodstuffs for future dinners. Tonight I made some tortellini with baquette bread and wine.
Most of the museums are closed on Monday, so I have quite a bit of catchup to do tomorrow!
I then checked out this Picard chain of stores I had heard of. Their speciality? Everything that is frozen food. And quite good looking frozen food if I do say so myself. I picked up a few odds and ends for a dinner to come.
I then hopped onto the Métro and went straight to the Trocadero to be about as touristy as I could be. I´m also glad to report that the Navigo Découverte worked perfectly! Time to use and abuse. The Trocadero offers the best and most uninterrupted views of the Tour Eiffel...quintessential tourist shot. I am happy.
I then went into the Museum of Architecture and Patrimony. Because of what I´m guessing are my manners and my smoothness of speaking French, I was considered a student of the EU and let in for free! The museum boasts architectural remnants off of just about every major church in the country of France from Chartres to Notre Dame in the center of the city. Everything started to blend together after a while, but the real highlight was an original entire apartment from Le Corbusier´s Unité d´Habitation in Marseille. Google away. The whole thing was rebuilt in the gallery and you could walk through the entire interior; that was a real treat. Although the question that kept popping into my head was: how and why did this stuff get here? Most of these buildings are still standing. Couldn´t find the answer to that conundrum anywhere...
By the time I got through this museum, I was starving. Unfortunately, the sandwiches in the food court were short and 5 euros....I muttered to myself that I could so do better. So I trotted down one of the radiating streets and, sure enough, found a patisserie with a huge tuna baguette sandwich for 3,50 euros. Score. Also, found the best place to sit and enjoy it: on the steps down from the Trocadero. Calm, few people, and glorious views of the Tour Eiffel :) After lunch, I walked under the Tour and took a peek at the menu of the illustrious Restaurant Jules Verne on the upper étage of the Tour. 165 euros for a full meal and 70 euro à la carte. 24 euro desserts. INSANE.
Hopped on the Métro and took it to the Palais Royale, the site of the Salon D´Automne of 1912 that I´m studying. Much to my disappointment, most of the building was under heavy renovation work. However, while circumambulating the building, one giant fair door was open and I got a lovely view of the main exhibition hall. Really breathtaking. I parked on a bench across from the main entrance to contemplate and stuff and had a guy try to pull the gold ring con on me. I don´t know the specifics, but they pretend to find a ring on the ground in front of you and offer it to you...I would assume for some sort of money...or pickpocketing...who knows...shook my head. Fun fact: Aston Martin´s Paris dealership backs up to the Grand Palais...distractions
Hopped back on the Métro and attempted to find the original gallery space for the Salon de la Section D´Or, a Cubism exhibition that was running at the same time as the Salon D´Automne. Mega unfortunately, the original space at 64 bis, rue de la Boétie has now become some sort of a high class beauty salon or school or something.
I hopped on the Métro still again to find the location of Daniel Henry-Kahnweiler´s gallery (gallerist to Picasso and Braques and arguably one of the most important facilitators of the history of Modern Art). Along the way ran into the Fauchon store. Decorated in black and pink à la Victoria´s Secret, but chocolate and delacacies galore. Though the entire wall of fois gras was a little disturbing I couldn´t help but walk out with a bar of (fruity?) chocolate. At 28, rue Vignon, the address of the gallery, I found the huge door open to a courtyard. The elegant metal and glass portico off of one wall of the courtyard certainly had the air of what could have been the gallery, but alas, also has now become a beauty salon. Trend?
I then trotted by the Bibliothèque Nationale de France where I hope to do research in the next couple days. Along the way to the original Monoprix I found in my first few days (because the one by me only carries clothes, cosmetics, and cleaning supplies?) I got a tad bit lost...and ended up at the grand magasin of Au Printemps...rough life, right? All looking, no buying as pretty much everything was out of my price range (still can´t quite see 1500 euros for a Lanvin sweater). Yay Monoprix...got me some good foodstuffs for future dinners. Tonight I made some tortellini with baquette bread and wine.
Most of the museums are closed on Monday, so I have quite a bit of catchup to do tomorrow!
Sunday, August 28, 2011
Walk like a Parisian
Jam-packed day y´all!
I started out by checking out the surrounding area. I´m off of the Les Gobelins stop where there are essentially 6 major roads coming out of a circle. All have quite lovely, and what I would call not entirely touristy, selections. I also inadvertedly stumbled upon the Rue Mouffetard that I had heard about. Evidently, every day there is a street market with locally grown food. I´m totally going back there for dinner one night!
I then sucked it up and went forth to conquer my fear: semi-permanent Métro passes. I had a horrid time with one of the ticket-window ladies who would not help me out at all with the multitude of passes they had. WELL...Matt did his research at home and figured out exactly what I needed: the Navigo Découverte. I can load either a week or month onto the card and then get unlimited uses in the designated zones. And it went off without a hitch! You get a little pack with a hard plastic case holder, the smart chip Navigo card, and then an id card you affix a picture to and then sign and seal. I´m like a legit Parisian now :)
I also went to the American Embassy (by which I mean McDonald´s because I was dying for unhealthy food). Put your judgment away. I can see it; it´s still there. Seriously, put it away. Ain´t nobody gonna stand between me and my Big Mac. I´m a fan of France´s notion of meal size. The burger and fries were the same, but a ¨normale¨ drink was the size of an American small...which is just right for me. Rock on France.
After this, and since my Navigo doesn´t kick in until tomorrow (their week is Monday through Sunday) I decided to go on a far walking adventure. I trotted up the Boulevard St. Michel and end up in the Jardin du Luxembourg and the accompagnying Palais, now the seat of the French Senate. Absolutely lovely. There were hoards of of French people out enjoying a Sunday afternoon on the grass...weird...reminds me of a painting or something...
I then trotted still farther north to the Panthéon. Didn´t pay to go inside, but got to enjoy the freize we studied in 19th century art. While looking at my map, it occured to me I was standing right in front of the Bibliothèque Saint-Genviève...one of the foremost in the city...hopefully I can take a peek inside at some point.
I also walked around the slightly-hard-to-pinpoint--because-it-takes-up-a-few-blocks Sorbonne, the flagship of the Université de Paris. Uber construction going on so I couldn´t see much (and it certainly didn´t help that it was a Sunday during Summer).
I walked up still further to the church of St. Severin. One of the Cubists I´m studying, Robert Delauney, did a whole series of paintings on the unique columns and corridors inside. I love entering a space and feeling like I´ve been there before because I´ve seen a painting of or about it. Had a similar feeling in the Gare St. Lazare thanks to Manet.
I ended up back at Notre-Dame and entered back in with the hoards of tourists. After breaking slightly, I managed to find the fabled Shakespeare and Co. bookstore...one of the first and most famous English language bookstores in Paris. Absolutely the coolest bookstore interior. Couldn´t take photos inside, so that will just have to remain in my noggin.
Had dinner at a nice café not too far away from my apartment. I had a croque jeune-homme, a bit of a play on the typical croque-monsieur. toasted bread, with ham and melted cheese on top. I have to say Parisian café culture is interesting. Very lax, you sit down at any table you like, and most of the chairs face not each other, but out onto the road. It´s as if the road is suddenly a stage for the spectators in the café. Kind of turns the notion of peering in at restaurant-goers through a window on its head.
The weather is starting a gradual descent. We crested 70 today, but not by much. So I guess it´s going to be pants for the rest of my trip. Not necessarily a bad thing. Everyone else wears them. On that note, French fashion. Everything flies here. Everything. And to the websites that say only tourists wear shorts...not true. I´ve seen plenty of shorts-clad dudes walking around, open their mouth, and eloquent French comes out. And choices seem so random. Honestly, I think some of them just put on the first things they find in the morning and work it no matter what. Certainly a city of confidence...among many other things.
Walking like a Parisian isn´t about just a language or an article of clothing, it´s a state of mind.
I started out by checking out the surrounding area. I´m off of the Les Gobelins stop where there are essentially 6 major roads coming out of a circle. All have quite lovely, and what I would call not entirely touristy, selections. I also inadvertedly stumbled upon the Rue Mouffetard that I had heard about. Evidently, every day there is a street market with locally grown food. I´m totally going back there for dinner one night!
I then sucked it up and went forth to conquer my fear: semi-permanent Métro passes. I had a horrid time with one of the ticket-window ladies who would not help me out at all with the multitude of passes they had. WELL...Matt did his research at home and figured out exactly what I needed: the Navigo Découverte. I can load either a week or month onto the card and then get unlimited uses in the designated zones. And it went off without a hitch! You get a little pack with a hard plastic case holder, the smart chip Navigo card, and then an id card you affix a picture to and then sign and seal. I´m like a legit Parisian now :)
I also went to the American Embassy (by which I mean McDonald´s because I was dying for unhealthy food). Put your judgment away. I can see it; it´s still there. Seriously, put it away. Ain´t nobody gonna stand between me and my Big Mac. I´m a fan of France´s notion of meal size. The burger and fries were the same, but a ¨normale¨ drink was the size of an American small...which is just right for me. Rock on France.
After this, and since my Navigo doesn´t kick in until tomorrow (their week is Monday through Sunday) I decided to go on a far walking adventure. I trotted up the Boulevard St. Michel and end up in the Jardin du Luxembourg and the accompagnying Palais, now the seat of the French Senate. Absolutely lovely. There were hoards of of French people out enjoying a Sunday afternoon on the grass...weird...reminds me of a painting or something...
I then trotted still farther north to the Panthéon. Didn´t pay to go inside, but got to enjoy the freize we studied in 19th century art. While looking at my map, it occured to me I was standing right in front of the Bibliothèque Saint-Genviève...one of the foremost in the city...hopefully I can take a peek inside at some point.
I also walked around the slightly-hard-to-pinpoint--because-it-takes-up-a-few-blocks Sorbonne, the flagship of the Université de Paris. Uber construction going on so I couldn´t see much (and it certainly didn´t help that it was a Sunday during Summer).
I walked up still further to the church of St. Severin. One of the Cubists I´m studying, Robert Delauney, did a whole series of paintings on the unique columns and corridors inside. I love entering a space and feeling like I´ve been there before because I´ve seen a painting of or about it. Had a similar feeling in the Gare St. Lazare thanks to Manet.
I ended up back at Notre-Dame and entered back in with the hoards of tourists. After breaking slightly, I managed to find the fabled Shakespeare and Co. bookstore...one of the first and most famous English language bookstores in Paris. Absolutely the coolest bookstore interior. Couldn´t take photos inside, so that will just have to remain in my noggin.
Had dinner at a nice café not too far away from my apartment. I had a croque jeune-homme, a bit of a play on the typical croque-monsieur. toasted bread, with ham and melted cheese on top. I have to say Parisian café culture is interesting. Very lax, you sit down at any table you like, and most of the chairs face not each other, but out onto the road. It´s as if the road is suddenly a stage for the spectators in the café. Kind of turns the notion of peering in at restaurant-goers through a window on its head.
The weather is starting a gradual descent. We crested 70 today, but not by much. So I guess it´s going to be pants for the rest of my trip. Not necessarily a bad thing. Everyone else wears them. On that note, French fashion. Everything flies here. Everything. And to the websites that say only tourists wear shorts...not true. I´ve seen plenty of shorts-clad dudes walking around, open their mouth, and eloquent French comes out. And choices seem so random. Honestly, I think some of them just put on the first things they find in the morning and work it no matter what. Certainly a city of confidence...among many other things.
Walking like a Parisian isn´t about just a language or an article of clothing, it´s a state of mind.
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